Last time I was in this restaurant was over ten years ago. Called
something else and owned by someone else, I remember thinking it was like being
in someone’s home, albeit one they had turned into a dining room. Like a posh,
pretentious Come Dine with Me. All
style no substance. The service
was eager as in they wouldn’t leave us alone. Attentive is good, persistent is annoying. I couldn’t read the menu as the
lights were so dimmed I nearly burnt the menu putting it so close to the
solitary candle and I left hungry because the food was good enough to look at
and not enough to satisfy.
This time, same layout but completely different experience, something
Peter Burrell and Frankie Dettori MBE, the owners have done well to create. Décor
is minimalistic; ambience is warm. Manager Umberto Scomparin has the manner of a knowing uncle (admittedly
I suppose this is dependent on your age and sex) – but his manner is informed,
helpful, warm, patient, like the proverbial baby porridge – ‘just right’. He tells you where every
ingredient originated, what is in season, making helpful suggestions not
intrusive ones, or not - if he
senses you just want to eat and gaze at your partner (something they didn’t get
ten years ago). Empathy and
probable telepathy is important in restaurant staff.
The food is beautifully presented but not so much you feel you’re eating
a work of art. You can tell Chef Stefano Stecca loves what he does. I started with salmon tartare, then
sea bass, keeping it light, but there are more ample options – if you order
ravioli as a starter, come hungry.
There are extremely reasonably priced set menus for Sunday lunch,
especially considering where you are (Chelsea). It somehow manages to cut across the bridge of being
both smart and authentically child friendly – I’m taking my 13 year old there
next week. I haven’t been
there in the evening, but at lunch time even on dull days, natural light beams
in so you can see what you’re eating (many restaurants especially Italian ones
go for the cosy, semi dark approach which is fine for romance, lousy for seeing
the food – or menu for that matter). And I had a menu I could read! I know that sounds strange but as I get
older the menu type face seems to get smaller – or seems to get smaller. I didn’t even need the
glasses. Sette has empathy
indeed.
There is no excuse to leave the restaurant feeling hungry or over fed–
this place is the epitome of sublime ample sufficiency - it sets the right tone
on every level in every way.
Sette is a cut above the rest.
www.sette-restaurant.com/The childrens menu is at £10 for two courses on
Sundays and is Chicken Milanese, Tomato Spaghetti and Lasagne followed by ice
cream or
Tiramisu.