Lisbon light has long been rated as something special. Allegedly a combination of refraction from the sea, the lack of pollution and the warm climate, as soon as you leave the airport, situated in the centre of the city, you will need the sunglasses. Even on a grey late October day, as it was when I arrived, the light was crisp and clear as if gazing into an iceberg. This brightness lifts the spirits, and combined with the positive ions from the sea, the friendly culture of the locals, it’s an ideal place for a retreat. Which is just as well, because half an hour’s drive along the coast is Palacio Estoril and wellness spa.
Fifty years ago the hotel, which was built in the 1930s, was well established amongst a select few, but then Bond, James Bond arrived, bringing with it a Hollywood spotlight of its own. In the Second World War, as Portugal was neutral, European Royals made it their home along with German and English spies who allegedly drank Vodka Martinis shaken not stirred in the bar. I never rated George Lazenby as a Bond, but I really liked the film, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (1968) in which he featured as the brief hiccup between Connery and Moore. The first image which emerges after the opening credits of the film, is Palace Estoril; a five star, old style grand hotel, veined with symmetrical well-lit corridors, the elegant walls lined with photographs of famous guests (Princess Grace, Queen Elizabeth, Tony Blair, Diana Rigg and George..), mirrored and marble cocktail bar with muted velvet lighting and vault like ceilings with large buffet tables where breakfast is served without background music and fuss. I admit, in design if not in energy, there is a touch of The Shining about it. The same doorman, Filippo, in grey gold braided tail-coat and peaked cap, still stands at the doors to greet guests as he did Bond, and is proud he appeared in the film and had a small speaking part (no credit, no payment, he tells me).
The Palacio is situated five minutes (I timed it) walk from the beach, the train station and bus station into Lisbon, and three-minutes-drive from the prestigious Estoril golf course (I always noted a lot of men and women in red trousers in the early hours hovering at the door). It is easy to walk on the sand beach or on the long esplanade where cyclists and runners stroll down to nearby Cascais.
Although one hotel, part of it was built later – the fifth floor and the style, design and energy of this floor is completely different to the lower floors, which although built earlier, appear more modern. The fifth floor with the best views, of the coast, nearby gardens and casino, is darker and more formal. By the pool there are split level rooms which are again totally different, looking out directly over the water and gardens. It seems three hotels in one.
When I researched my book HAVE TODDLER WILL TRAVEL (Hodder), I identified Portugal as being the top destination for families, and its still the case regardless of whether you have a child in tow or not. They are a very friendly, giving, people pleasing, gracious, and kind nation, qualities which other neighbouring nations would do well to emulate (including our own). Service is not treated as servile, it is an honour to serve.
So in this bubble of light, graciousness and positive ions, it is an ideal location for a wellness retreat.
Adjacent to the hotel is the Estoril wellness spa. Taking up the top three floors of the building, the bottom two host the Banyan Tree spa, associated more with the Far East destinations of Thailand and Malaysia where it originated. There is a symbiosis between the two cultures, - Portuguese and Thai, as both have service innate to their culture and it shows.
This year the centre won a prestigious Conde Nast Award for ‘targeted healing’, which appears rather obtuse until you look at the range of treatments on offer both at the Banyan and wellness centre. You can visit on a yoga, detox, anti-ageing or more specifically medical spa package. I admit, I have always been cautious of those spas offering ‘medical support’ having experienced some Northern European ideas of spa, and found them as clinical as disinfectant.
This centre is different, largely due to the team of therapists and their skill in explaining the relevance and benefit of each therapy.
There’s the conventional treatments. The scrubs, full, back, and deep tissue massages offered by the Banyan Tree, with therapists from Thailand who push all the right points to de-stress you as soon as you enter the room. The therapists are excellent.
Move up to the wellness centre and there’s the water treatments. They don’t use the sea like they do in Southern France thalassotherapy centres, but use the local spring waters which are full of minerals and salt. Here you can sample the thermal baths, with the steam rooms, sauna and hamman, or try out the hydrotherapy pool, either in a group class, with Aqua T’Ai Chi or with the therapist Paulo, who specialises is Watsu – which is shiatsu under water. It is like going back to the womb, or outer space. Which is the same difference really. I would highly recommend it for people who are under pressure, stressed and have issues with letting go. There is an element of trust, as you allow Paulo to lead you but the experienced has calmed even the most on edge CEO. There are also various water baths and massages. After you experience the Vichy Shower Massage you won’t want a conventional ‘dry land’ one after it. Streamed with warm jets of water, you are massaged. The only experience I could compare this to is if you are massaged by two people at the same time.
Then there’s the scientific. The centre analyses your blood, identifying what you are lacking and what you need to avoid anything from varicose veins to dementia. The magnified images of the red and white blood cells and platelets are fascinating. I’m going to have my blown up and put on the wall. It looks like I’ve discovered a whole new universe, which I suppose in a way I have.
The osteopath and physiotherapist offer that deep insight into the body, mind and emotions which you wish you could have every day, telling you why we need to relax the diaphragm, and the lasting impact being on the mobile too much has on body as well as the self esteem (which are closely connected).
However it is the biofeedback consultation, which astronauts have before they are permitted to ‘fly’ which is most illuminating. Bringing together science and the alternative, clients are hooked up to a computer and the vibrations are shown to reveal any physical, mental or emotional conditions which need to be addressed before you blast off into space.
Up a level again, and you have the pilates, pilates reformer classes, the yoga classes, barre (ballet for sadists – ie ballet without free expression). And the postural re-education classes, which for someone like me who teaches yoga, I found enlightening. The class is designed to teach people how to breathe, not just when exercising but in life. It should be mandatory pre yoga.
I was pummelled, stretched, twisted, pulled, steamed, balanced, dunked in water, floated like a baby, was told I have issues with betrayal and abandonment, self-belief, apathy and power and that I am dehydrated (I have been dehydrated since I was 18, I should be a prune), I have no cellulite and need more B12. But on the plus side, I am mentally, emotionally and physically fit, flexible, and fun, which is good to know.
The organic café on the first floor is excellent. The Feeling Good juice (spinach, avocado, everything green basically, and sesame seed tuna personally recommended, but always try the soups. The main hotel has a good healthy menu alternative showing if meals are without gluten, dairy or suitable for vegans, but do try out the brunch and lunch options at this wellness café. The juices are well conceived and both vegetarian and no vege alternatives are not just healthy but genuinely delicious.
With all that is on offer you may forget to pop outside, but please take a stroll along the promenade. The sun usually shines in Estoril but even when it doesn’t, it is always warm and that light lifts the spirits. The walk to Cascais and back is the ultimate tonic each day, either to top or tail the treatments.
I was so chilled after my four days at Palacio Estoril, I was even able to sleep for the three hour flight back on Ryanair. And I’ve never done that before.
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