Say hi to the sky. Four hours every day at La Folie Douce, half way up the mountain in Courcheval, I lived a Martini ad. Beautiful (ish) people dancing on tables, dancers and singers belting out rock ballads (in tune) while skiers parapented, swooping above our heads, like psychedelic eagles, as the DJ shouted out ‘say hi to the sky’. £30 for a small fish n chips, magnums of champagne being sent down every five minutes to the highest bidder and everyone dancing on tables in their ski boots, risking leg, limb and pride to boogie with girls dressed as pirates, one guy dressed as an Indian chief, another dressed in a unitard pink and turquoise unicorn outfit, with pink stilettos who oddly managed to pull it off brilliantly. Perhaps this is the Russian effect. There was plenty of bling at the lunch, which happens every day on the mountain, and plenty of bling on view in Courcheval itself, where leopard skin pants, bee stung lips and channel mirrored sunglasses are worn like uniform - regardless of gender. Diamond encrusted skis on view in the Chanel, Prada, Hermes outlets. So much has changed since my 18 – 30 basic ski holidays in Mayhofen, when rooms were simple, food was basic and the snow was slush and ice if you were lucky and the skis were heavy and boots were painful and ill fitting and like lead weights. European ski resorts were designed for skiers and little else. You paid a lot of money to be cold and uncomfortable and in pain. You either skied or you watched skiers and there wasn’t much to watch as restaurants were designed for functional eating rather than enjoyment. And mountain cafes served chips and beer. Regardless of the Russian effect, and perhaps a little because of it, so much has changed and for the better.
The snow has been good this year unlike the past five. This is good for the resorts who still heavily depend on the winter season. Two years ago I spent Christmas in Morzine and there was no snow. Many European resorts had pushed their summer seasons, with mountain biking, trekking, hiking, electric bikes, but as the winter approached each year, they have always hoped the snows would return. Even expert skiers find it challenging to ski on ice, and the North American and even South American ski market, where the snow has traditionally fallen heavy and consistently, have benefitted from Europe’s loss. European ski resorts have therefore had to think what else would attract winter visitors. As a result snow or no snow, there is now plenty to offer non skiers regardless of the snow.
For a start, accommodation has improved experientially. Chalets in particular have upped their game to cater for groups who want to spread the cost and have skiers who want to be on the slopes all day and those who want to lounge by the Jacuzzi, and make the apres ski, part of their all day experience. This January, I visited the Chalet Iona, just outside Meribel, which caters for up to eighteen. Each room has satellite Tv, deep thick pile carpets, good connection wifi and a chef and chauffeur if you want. The view over the three valleys is phenomenal. Food is superb (a veritable work of art) both inside the chalet and there’s also a huge range of restaurants which offer great food at a variety of prices – not just those suited to Russian wallets. Check out the Chabotte – Chabichou Hotel for people watching as well as good food reasonably priced (for Courcheval). Pilates and yoga instructors will come to the chalet, and if you don’t want them coming to you, there are plenty of classes in the valley which you can attend. The nearby large and elegantly designed Acquamotion centre (www.aquamotion-courcheval.com) offers acqua kick boxing so you can kick the wave out of the water, as well as enjoying the spa, sauna, salt water grotto, hamman, massage and even virtual reality experience where you can ski even if you never actually hit the slopes. A black run without the pain so to speak. Here you also learn to water surf – good practice for those who want to snow board, as well as aquabiking – think spinning class under water, and there’s a adults only area as well as a family area.
Meribel is very English – you will hear lots of English voices, but don’t let that put you off. The month before I was in Verbier, at the stylish W Hotel with its own spa and indoor pool, and Richard Branson’s chalet, which is pricier, but has its own staff, chef, chauffeur and guide. Snow shoeing guided by the Bond girl sounding Cherries Von Bauer, worked every muscle in my thighs and core, but you can also go on gentler, more horizontal routes. All ski resorts now are looking at ways to keep visitors entertained even if they don’t ski.
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