Wednesday, 24 July 2013

YUKONIC EXPERIENCE - DAY ONE. THE RIVER OF DISENCHANTMENT AND MOUNTAIN OF DISAPPOINTMENT - NOT!

We are here!! The Yukon is the most awe inspiring place in the world.   The scenery is jaw droppingly spectacular but I am driving an RV so my first day was spent being glued to the screen looking at the road. Screw the scenery I don't want to crash.

I am relaxing into it which may be a good sign.  I did this with my ex's Lotus and I killed it, swerving to miss a rabbit and they have great big ruddy moose out here so I have an excuse this time.

I am typing from a bakery in the middle of the Yukon. I do not know if this is progress but the buns are really good.

Yesterday we hiked with our excellent guide Brent to Kathleen Lake. We saw lots of bear droppings but no bear.   They like snowberries so lots of snowberry 'pies' on the trail.  Brent told us Kluane is half the size of Switzerland, the mountains are the tallest and youngest in Canada and grow as fast as our finger nails do.  So now you know.  

Kathleen Lake itself is incredible. Teaming with fish so the bears here are very happy.     The greatest lakes are always the ones named after women. They are the most beautiful, the most serene and wondrous but become dangerous and treacherous at a moment's breath.   Not fair and not true. But 'she' was stunning, will send pix later.

We then took a small plane with Daniel and flew over the glacier at Kluane National Park (means lots of fish) - the Kluane bit - not the National Park bit.     The glacier looks prehistoric and terrifying.  We flew over the ice burg lakes I kayaked through fifteen years ago when I was pregnant with Tom and presenting the Discovery Channel programme Trailblazers.  The guides we had were incredible.  Strong, suppportive, grounded.  I remember them as distinctly as I do the journey itself.     Daniel carefully explained the names of the mountains and rivers as we flew over them.  Many were named by native indians who gave each one a lyrical prosaic name such as 'whispering bear' or 'laughing eagle."  And what did the goldminers call them?    Disenchantment river and disappointment mountain.   Typical.   I think they should call one 'hiccuping chipmunk'  there are so many round here and they are so cute.  But alas I ran over one. Tom still not talking to me but the bloody thing has loads of time to cross the road and along we come and he chooses then. I learnt my lesson with the Lotus...

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